Age of Beauty: Elixir(s) of Youth [1]

As promised, skincare ingredients that have tested true to help with retaining your youth. In short, the most common in antiaging.

AHAs & BHAs

Mode of Action
AHAs help sun damaged skin by binding moisture and improving collagen production and smoothing skin texture. BHAs work well on oily, breakout prone skin and also helps reduce redness from rosacea. Both work via exfoliation of the skin, encouraging new skin growth.

Things to Note
Sensitivity to sunlight is increased, so usage of a broad spectrum sunscreen while under treatment is a must. Those with darker skins need to be more careful as darker skins tend to scar more easily, especially with glycolic acid. Mandelic acid and malic acid tend to be safer options.

Retinoids

Mode of Action
Derived from Vitamin A. Cell turnover rate increases, leading to brighter smoother skin. Cellular structure damage is repaired in the epidermal cells, as well as dermaal collagen and small blood vessels, resulting in tighter skin. Oil glands and appearance of pore size shrinks. Scars decrease.

Things to Note
Again, a good sunscreen is a must as skin tends to be more sun sensitive with usage of retinoids. Concentration needs to be high enough for retinoids to be effective, and air tight packaging is needed to prevent the products from becoming unstable in the presence of sunlight. Retinoids should be used with caution, especially in sensitive skins. Pregnant women ahould also try to avoid topical retinoids as it they have been shown to be harmful to the foetus.

Vitamin C & E

Mode of Action
Effective antioxidant, Vitamin C reduces damage by free radicals and boosts the effectiveness of sunscreen by helping us withstand and counteract the effects of sun exposure. It also increases collagen synthesis, which may help to diminish fine lines. It also helps with depigmentation at 5% or higher concentrations. Vitamin C boosts the effectiveness of Vitamin E, which is effective towards protecting our cell membranes. Vitamin E works to protect the cell and bodily structures considered to be 'oily'. It is effective both orally and topically. It is thought to help to protect agains age spots and scarring. Vitamin E also helps to retain skin moisture, by boosting the skin's natural moisture retaining mechanisms.

Things to Note
Look for reputable brands as Vitamin C in skincare tends to break down easily and become ineffective if not properly stabilized. Also, both Vitamins should be used with caution in sensitive skins.


Next up, in Age of Beauty: Elixir(s) of Youth [2]- the latest in anti aging, and why you should be using them. Stay tuned!